At the birth of the term "Guochao", it was closely associated with Chinese Guochao clothing entering the market. As an important component of Guochao, intangible cultural heritage has been a rising fashion and memory for young people in China.
HEA, a Guochao clothing brand born in Guangdong, has attracted attention by awakening lion, an intangible cultural heritage in the Lingnan area, in its clothing. It strives to find a balance between traditional and modern aesthetics and expands the use of intangible cultural heritage to bring it a new life.
In 2016, HEA was established in Foshan, the birthplace of Southern Lion Dance. This Guangfu brand, with the prominent symbol of the awakening lion, originated from the clothing series themed awakening lion head released by the "Museum of Lion Art".
(资料图片仅供参考)
"Bringing new energy to the intangible cultural heritage is difficult for the inheritors because it is hard for them to find a path to innovation. We are willing to make innovative derivatives of intangible cultural heritage, so that more people can pay attention to it, such as awakening lion from Lingnan. Therefore, traditional craftsmen can be seen by more people," said Ma Liang, co-founder of HEA. He added that it is more important to know how to introduce the traditional spirit of awakening lion with the IP of awakening lion clothing.
With the cross-border collaboration of different cultures, the application of the awakening lion has been expanded, which has created a novel and daily experience of the intangible cultural heritage for the consumers, satisfying user needs from multiple perspectives with more reputation among consumers.
The development of Guochao clothing has also attracted the interest of young people and further promoted the surge of Guochao, helping them understand traditional culture more deeply. In 2019, HEA established the first "Museum of Lion Art" in Foshan, which exhibits awakening lion heads of famous characters Liu Bei, Guan Yu and Zhang Fei from the traditional Chinese novel "Romance of the Three Kingdoms" and exquisite handmade lion heads from around the world like one with dragon and phoenix. The museum is gradually adding art exhibits related to the awakening lion like Foshan copper paper-cut.
"This year, we are going to open new stores in Japan and the United States!" While Ma Liang showed reporters the exquisite craftsmanship of these clothes born in Guangdong, he was difficult to hide his excitement about their new plan.
Ma Liang admitted that the advantage of Chinese brands lies in the affordability and craftsmanship of "Made in China" products. However, so far, there has not been a successful case of a Chinese fashion brand successfully entering the international market, which indicates their original intention: to change the impression of Chinese brands from "Made in China" to "Created in China" in the world.
Nowadays, with the rising cultural confidence of Generation Z consumers, Guochao has ushered in its best era. Intangible cultural heritage urgently needs to find new ways of revitalization in the trend of Guochao to become more daily, creative and fashionable.
广府本土服饰品牌:做岭南文化衍生原创
“国潮”一词诞生之际,就与中国国潮服饰紧紧联系在一起,从国潮萌芽阶段开始进入大众消费视野。而“非遗”作为国潮元素的重要组成部分,越来越受到年轻人的追捧,成为年轻一代的中国记忆。
诞生于广东的国潮服饰品牌HEA,因在服饰中嵌入岭南非遗醒狮元素而引人注目。努力在传统和现代审美之间找到平衡,扩大非遗的使用场景使其得到新活力。
2016年,在南派醒狮发源地佛山,HEA服饰品牌成立。这个以醒狮为突出标志的广府品牌,最早源于“龙狮文创”中的岭南狮头的服装系列。
“活化非遗这件事对于非遗传承人很难,因为他们找不到创新的路径。我们愿意给非遗文化做创新的衍生品,让更多人关注到岭南醒狮等非遗传统文化,让传统手艺人被更多人看到。”HEA品牌联合创始人马亮表示,如何从醒狮服饰的IP出发,把传统精气神的醒狮精神传播出去,才是更重要的。
在跨界联名的多文化碰撞下,醒狮应用空间再被扩大,非遗文化日常化营造出更具新鲜感的消费体验,多角度地满足了用户需求,赢得更多消费者的青睐和好感。
国潮服饰的发展也促进了年轻人对于传统文化深度了解的兴趣,进而推动了国潮化浪潮的涌动。2019年,HEA服饰成立首个佛山龙狮文创馆,馆中展出“刘、关、张”传统狮头、手工艺精湛的龙凤呈祥狮等来自世界各地的狮头扎作作品,并陆续增加与醒狮相关的铜凿剪纸艺术展品。
“今年,我们还要去日本、去美国开店!”马亮一边向记者展示着这些诞生于广东的衣服的精致工艺,一边难掩对新规划的兴奋。
马亮坦言,中国品牌的优势在于“中国制造”的物美价廉和工艺。但是到目前为止,中国还没有成功的国潮服饰品牌向国际成功输出的案例,这也是他们瞄准国际市场的初衷——实现国产品牌国际印象从“中国制造”到“中国创造”的转变。
如今,随着Z时代消费者文化自信日益崛起,“国潮”已经迎来了最好的时代,非遗文化亟须在国潮热中找到活化新路,实现非遗文化的生活化、创意化和时尚化。
文、图 | 羊城晚报全媒体记者 孙绮曼 刘佳宁实习生 郑泳丹翻译 | 白心怡
来源 | 羊城晚报·羊城派责编 | 戚美青校对 | 周勇